Firewood combustion temperature: tables of comparative characteristics

Homeowners who use solid fuel boilers and stoves to heat their homes often pay attention to such a parameter as the combustion temperature of firewood. The interest in the issue is understandable, because for the owner of the house it is important to obtain the maximum amount of heat. Accordingly, when preparing fuel for the winter, you need to worry about a sufficient amount of firewood for the entire season. In fact, the issue of heat transfer from wood is somewhat broader and depends not only on temperature, but also on other parameters. We will consider which ones in this material.

Temperature threshold for combustion of wood of various species

Depending on the structure and density of wood, as well as the amount and characteristics of resins, the combustion temperature of firewood, its calorific value, and the properties of the flame depend.

If the wood is porous, it will burn very brightly and intensely, but it will not produce high combustion temperatures - the maximum value is 500 ℃. But denser wood, such as hornbeam, ash or beech, burns at a temperature of about 1000 ℃. The combustion temperature of birch (about 800 ℃), as well as oak and larch (900 ℃) is slightly lower. If we are talking about species such as spruce and pine, then they light up at approximately 620-630 ℃.

Which wood burns hotter?

So, the heat of combustion of firewood depends on its moisture content and the density of the wood structure. But what’s surprising is that not all wood fuel burns equally. Some types of wood burn, leaving only a small pile of ash, some do not burn completely, leaving whole firebrands of extinct coal. Some burn brightly, releasing a large amount of thermal energy, others barely smolder, emitting smoke and fumes.

The same amount of wood can burn at different speeds and produce different amounts of heat. Next, we will tell you how you can increase the efficiency of burning wood: extend its burning time, increase heat transfer and reduce consumption without special costs.

Larch

The tree is second only to oak in terms of its thermal characteristics. It’s easier to chop it, and it’s easier to light it, too. Refers to coniferous, resinous species. It does not grow in all forests, but in some places it is found quite often, and in some places it forms larch taiga.

• Fire power: 0.81de.
• Calorific value: 3062 kWh/m³.
• Combustion temperature: 865 °C.
• Burning time: long.
• Flame: smooth, has a noticeable blue tint, sparkles, and can periodically “shoot.” Smokes.
• Coals: have a long smoldering time and good heat.
• Difficulty of lighting: above average. It is somewhat easier to light larch than oak, but you still have to build a small fire before throwing the log into it.

Use of wood based on its heat capacity

When choosing a type of firewood, it is worth considering the ratio of cost and heat capacity of a particular wood. As practice shows, the best option can be considered birch firewood, which has the best balance of these indicators. If you purchase more expensive firewood, the costs will be less effective.

To heat a house with a solid fuel boiler, it is not recommended to use types of wood such as spruce, pine or fir. The fact is that in this case, the combustion temperature of the wood in the boiler will not be high enough, and a lot of soot will accumulate on the chimneys.

Firewood made from alder, aspen, linden and poplar also has low thermal efficiency due to its porous structure. In addition, sometimes during the burning process alder and some other types of firewood shoot out coals. In the case of an open furnace, such micro-explosions can lead to fires.

It is worth noting that no matter what the wood is, if it is damp, it burns worse than dry wood and does not burn completely, leaving a lot of ash.

Close the valve in a timely manner

The stronger the draft, the faster the wood burns. But if there is not enough air, they burn poorly and form a lot of soot. Balance is important so that the minimum amount of air necessary for combustion reaches the firewood.

1. Before ignition, open the heater damper to the maximum to ensure good draft for igniting the wood.
2. When the wood starts to burn, begin to gradually close the valve. If the firewood starts to go out, open the valve slightly and increase the draft. Over time, you will find the optimal valve position.

The drier and denser the wood, the less air is required to burn it.

How to simplify the choice of chimney

What is a chimney for fireplaces? This is a set of pipes, one end of which is connected to a heating device, and the other is brought outside. Its installation is a rather complex and labor-intensive process that requires certain knowledge and professionalism. Chimneys can be made of brick, stainless steel, ceramics. Each of these types has its own advantages, disadvantages, as well as installation features. Of course, in order to make the right choice, it is better to seek advice from professionals. However, in order to have some idea about the design of chimneys, we provide below a brief description of the most common types.

Heat transfer when burning wood in a stove

There is a direct relationship between the combustion temperature of wood in a stove and heat transfer - the hotter the flame, the more heat it releases into the room. The amount of thermal energy generated is influenced by various characteristics of the tree. Calculated values ​​can be found in reference literature.

It is worth noting that all standard indicators were calculated under ideal conditions:

• the wood is well dried;
• the furnace firebox is closed;
• oxygen is supplied in clearly dosed portions to support the combustion process.

Naturally, it is impossible to create such conditions in a home oven, so less heat will be released than calculations show. Therefore, the standards will be useful only for determining the general dynamics and comparing characteristics.

Remove soot promptly

Soot needs to be removed not only when the chimney is clogged, but regularly. Soot not only impairs chimney draft, but also serves as thermal insulation. It covers the internal walls of the heating device and the heat exchanger, which reduces their heat transfer. If soot is removed in a timely manner, the volume of wood burned can be reduced without loss of heating power.

Obvious, but worth remembering: the firewood must be dry. Wet wood does not ignite well, goes out quickly and emits 2-2.5 times less heat than dry wood.

Elm

Elm is often found in broad-leaved and mixed forests and can form quite large clusters. It is hard, does not chip easily, but in terms of its heat characteristics it is approximately the same as birch. Just like it, it can burn in its raw form.

• Fire power: 0.77de.
• Calorific value: 2912 kWh/m³.
• Combustion temperature: 864 °C.
• Burning time: long.
• Flame: even, smokes moderately.
• Coals: very reminiscent of birch coals - they smolder for a long time and fry well.
• Lighting difficulty: medium.

What is the combustion process

An isothermal reaction in which a certain amount of thermal energy is released is called combustion. This reaction goes through several successive stages.

In the first stage, the wood is heated by an external fire source to the ignition point. As it heats up to 120-150 ℃, the wood turns into coal, which is capable of self-ignition. Once the temperature reaches 250-350 ℃, flammable gases begin to be released - this process is called pyrolysis. At the same time, smoldering of the top layer of wood occurs, which is accompanied by white or brown smoke - these are mixed pyrolysis gases with water vapor.

At the second stage, as a result of heating, the pyrolysis gases ignite with a light yellow flame. It gradually spreads over the entire area of ​​the wood, continuing to heat the wood.

The next stage is characterized by ignition of the wood. As a rule, for this it should warm up to 450-620 ℃. For wood to ignite, you need an external heat source that is intense enough to rapidly heat the wood and speed up the reaction.

In addition, the rate of firewood ignition is influenced by factors such as:

• craving;
• wood moisture;
• cross-section and shape of firewood, as well as their quantity in one stack;
• wood structure - loose firewood ignites faster than dense wood;
• placement of the tree relative to the air flow - horizontally or vertically.

Let's clarify some points. Since wet wood, when burning, first evaporates excess liquid, it ignites and burns much worse than dry wood. Shape also matters—ribbed and jagged logs ignite more easily and quickly than smooth, round ones.

The draft in the chimney must be sufficient to ensure the flow of oxygen and dissipate thermal energy inside the firebox to all objects located in it, but not to blow out the fire.

The fourth stage of the thermochemical reaction is a stable combustion process, which, after the outbreak of pyrolysis gases, covers all the fuel in the furnace. Combustion goes through two phases - smoldering and burning with flame.

During the smoldering process, the coal formed as a result of pyrolysis burns, while gases are released rather slowly and cannot ignite due to their low concentration. The condensation of gases as they cool produces white smoke. As wood smolders, fresh oxygen gradually penetrates, causing the reaction to further spread to the rest of the fuel. The flame occurs as a result of the combustion of pyrolysis gases, which move vertically towards the outlet.

As long as the required temperature is maintained inside the furnace, oxygen is supplied and there is unburnt fuel, the combustion process continues.

If such conditions are not maintained, then the thermochemical reaction enters the final stage - decay.

Weeds

Now is the time to consider alternative types of natural fuel that can be used to fuel a campfire.

Sometimes it happens that there is no dead wood near the camp, but conscience does not allow green trees to be cut (foresters do not allow them), or there is a decent distance to them. Then you have to get out with the help of herbaceous plants. As a rule, if the area is more or less wild and open, such large species of grass as:

• Sagebrush;
• Burdock;
• Thistles, thistles and others like them;
• Blooming Sally;
• Large umbelliferae: hemlock, kupir, angelica, hogweed (including the notorious giant one);

If the area is marshy or borders water, then the above list is supplemented by the following plants:

• Cane;
• Rogoz;

In rural areas, the following options are possible:

• Straw;
• Sunflower stems;

The best thing, of course, is thick, non-hollow stems (wormwood, burdock, sunflower). All this nonsense usually dries out in the fall, stands all winter, spring and the first third of summer, then - as the green herbs grow, most of last year's dry stems rot and fall off. However, you can collect a certain amount of such “wood” for a fire at any time of the year.

Dry weeds burn quickly and hotly; they actually do not form coals, because their density is very low. For a full-fledged night fire you will need ten cubic meters and a specially trained farmhand who will constantly throw this thing into the fire. It is also possible to use ingenuity: twist the grass into dense sheaves with twine. It will burn longer.

But in order to light a mini-bonfire, for example, for boiling water, weeds are quite suitable. The only thing you need is a few stones. So that you can lay out a small fireplace and not radiate heat into space in vain, thereby increasing the efficiency of the fire.

Next are the parameters of weeds as fire fuel (during the calculations, straw indicators were used as the initial parameters).

• Fire power: 0.1de.
• Calorific value: 378 kWh/m³.
• Combustion temperature: 800-900 °C.
• Burning time: very short.
• Flame: even, with a characteristic crackling sound. It smokes, the less dry the material, the stronger it is.
• Coals: does not actually form.
• Difficulty of lighting: extremely low, dry weeds are excellent kindling.

How to determine the combustion temperature in a wood-burning stove

Measuring the combustion temperature of wood in a fireplace can only be done with a pyrometer - no other measuring instruments are suitable for this.

If you do not have such a device, you can visually determine approximate indicators based on the color of the flame. Thus, a low temperature flame has a dark red color. A yellow light indicates that the temperature obtained by increasing the draft is too high, but in this case more heat is immediately evaporated through the chimney. For a stove or fireplace, the most suitable combustion temperature will be one at which the color of the flame will be yellow, such as, for example, dry birch firewood.

Modern stoves and solid fuel boilers, as well as closed fireplaces, are equipped with an air supply control system to adjust heat transfer and combustion intensity.

Cedar

In mid-latitudes it is rather rare, but in more northern regions it grows everywhere. It has soft wood and cracks well. Cedar wood is good fuel for a fire.

• Fire power: 0.70de.
• Calorific value: 2645 kWh/m³.
• Combustion temperature: ~650 °C.
• Burning time: average.
• Flame: even, may spark. Smokes.
• Coals: quite hot, medium smoldering time.
• Lighting difficulty: easy.

Heat output of wood

In addition to the value of calorific value, that is, the amount of thermal energy released during fuel combustion, there is also the concept of heat output. This is the maximum temperature in a wood-burning stove that the flame can reach when the wood is burning intensely. This indicator also completely depends on the characteristics of the wood.

In particular, if the wood has a loose and porous structure, it burns at fairly low temperatures, producing a light, high flame, and produces fairly little heat. But dense wood, although it flares up much worse, even with a weak and low flame gives a high temperature and a large amount of thermal energy.

Prepare firewood in advance

Bring the wood into a warm room 2-3 days before lighting to increase its initial temperature.

The warmer the wood is initially, the:

• They spend less heat on their own heating and more on heating the room. You use heat more beneficially.
• Firewood reaches its optimal combustion mode faster, which further increases its calorific value and reduces the amount of soot emitted. This happens because the resin, creosote, tar, essential oils and other substances contained in wood do not burn at low temperatures and are deposited on the walls in the form of soot. And under optimal conditions, the combustion temperature is sufficient for them to burn entirely and release additional heat.

The difference between the combustion of “warm” and “cold” firewood is immediately noticeable: cold firewood produces a lot of smoke, which characterizes incomplete combustion. And warm, dry wood burns with virtually no smoke.

Video installation of a sandwich chimney with your own hands

A feature of modern sauna stoves is their heating temperature, which can reach 400 degrees. An important indicator of the efficiency of the furnace is instant heating of the body and maximum heat transfer.

The entire heating process is accompanied by the release of infrared radiation, which is distributed on surfaces adjacent to the furnace. Under the influence of high temperatures, the wooden structure of the bathhouse can char or ignite.

This is why it is so important to ensure that wooden surfaces are reliably insulated from the heat of the stove. A protective screen and lining made of fire-resistant materials are suitable for this.

Protective thermal screens

As the main protection of the walls of the bathhouse, heat-resistant screens are used - special insulation shields to cover the side surfaces of the stove and reduce the intensity of the spread of IR radiation in the room.

Screens are divided into two categories: metal and brick.

Metal

Protective screen made of sheets of steel or cast iron. It is mounted around the perimeter of the sauna stove, while maintaining small technological gaps (3-5 cm) between the screen and the outer walls of the heating structure to ensure additional air convection.

Depending on the characteristics of the walls of the bathhouse and the type of stove, metal screens can be front and side. Some models of metal stoves are produced with an additional protective casing, which is installed when installing the firebox.

Installation of metal screens is carried out using adjustable legs and secured to the floor with bolts. In addition, the legs allow for clearance at the bottom of the structure for additional ventilation. To increase service life, the screens are coated with a fire-resistant paint layer.

Advantages:

• reduction in the intensity of IR rays;
• improvement of air convection between the oven walls and the screen;
• reduction of the overall heating temperature of the external walls of the heating structure.

Brick

A protective screen made of brick is intended for enclosing the walls of a sauna stove.

The masonry is done in ½ brick around the perimeter, maintaining technological gaps of 6 cm. The lower part of the structure is equipped with additional air ducts at a distance of 2.5 cm from each other.

To construct a brick screen for furnaces, heat-resistant fireclay bricks without voids are used. As a connecting mixture - a thick solution of cement or clay.

The finished screen walls should be 22–25 cm higher than the wall of the heating structure.

Advantages:

• low thermal conductivity of the material from which the screen is made;
• resistance to high humidity and high temperatures;
• long-term accumulation of heat in the room;
• receiving soft heat from the stove.

Humidity and combustion intensity

If the wood was recently cut down, it contains from 45 to 65% moisture, depending on the time of year and the species. Such damp wood will have a low combustion temperature in the fireplace, since a large amount of energy will be spent on evaporation of water. Consequently, heat transfer from damp wood will be quite low.

There are several ways to achieve optimal temperature in the fireplace and release enough heat energy to warm up:

• Burn twice as much fuel at a time to heat your home or cook food. This approach is fraught with significant material costs and increased accumulation of soot and condensate on the walls of the chimney and in the passages.
• Raw logs are sawn, split into small logs and placed under a shed to dry. As a rule, in 1-1.5 years, firewood loses up to 20% of moisture.
• Firewood can be purchased already well dried. Although they are somewhat more expensive, their heat transfer is much greater.

It is worth noting that the wood of raw felled poplar and some other species is completely unsuitable for use as fuel. It is loose, contains a lot of water, so when burning it produces very little heat.

At the same time, raw birch firewood has a fairly high calorific value. In addition, raw logs made from hornbeam, ash and other dense wood species are suitable for use.

What kind of wood is better to burn?

The heat output of the heating device and the burning time greatly depend on the type of wood.

At the molecular level, wood consists of many empty cells with walls made of woody matter. The density of this woody substance (walls) is the same for all types of wood, but the size of the cells is different.

The smaller the size of the cells, the higher the density of the wood and each square centimeter contains a lot of flammable wood matter. And vice versa: the larger the size of the cells, the lower the density of the tree. It contains a lot of air and little flammable wood matter.

Imagine that a circle is 1 square centimeter of wood. In the first case, the cells are small and there are many walls between them. In the second case, the number of cells and walls is smaller, and there are more voids filled with air. The density of such wood is low.

What conclusions can be drawn:

1. Less dense wood burns quickly
   . When wood burns, air is released, which fuels the combustion. The more air, the firewood burns faster and less evenly.
2. Dense firewood produces more heat
   because it contains more combustible wood matter per unit volume.
3. Dense firewood leaves more coals
   , which take a long time to smolder. Soft woods hold their shape less well, crumble into small coals and go out quickly.

All wood is divided into three density categories: low, medium, high.

Rowan

It is often found in large quantities in forests, mainly in the form of low undergrowth, however, on the edges and clearings it can grow to significant sizes. It is often found along the banks of rivers, especially taiga ones.

Rowan wood is quite dense, comparable in weight to bird cherry. Nothing is known about the exact calorific characteristics of rowan wood. In our practice, we have repeatedly come across dry mountain ash, which burned approximately like alder, but it did not produce any special coals.

Preheat the firebox

When wood starts to burn in a cold firebox, then:

• part of the heat is spent on heating the firebox, and not heating the room (as in the previous point).
• It is more difficult for them to flare up, since warm air overcomes the resistance of cold air in the chimney.

Basic firewood is best lit in a preheated firebox so that it does not waste extra energy heating the firebox and chimney. You can use the heat from the previous stack of firewood or pre-burn the prepared torches and paper in the firebox.

How does draft in a stove affect combustion?

If an insufficient amount of oxygen enters the furnace firebox, the intensity and temperature of wood combustion decreases, and at the same time its heat transfer decreases. Some people prefer to cover the ash in the stove to extend the burning time of one bookmark, but as a result, the fuel burns with lower efficiency.

If wood is burned in an open fireplace, then oxygen freely enters the firebox. In this case, the draft depends mainly on the characteristics of the chimney.

Under ideal conditions, the formula for a thermochemical reaction looks something like this:

C+2H2+2O2=CO2+2H2O+Q (thermal energy).

This means that when oxygen is available, hydrogen and carbon are burned, resulting in thermal energy, water vapor and carbon dioxide.

For the maximum combustion temperature of dry fuel, about 130% of the oxygen required for combustion must enter the furnace. When the inlet dampers are closed, an excess of carbon monoxide is produced due to a lack of oxygen. Such unburnt carbon evaporates into the chimney, however, the combustion temperature inside the firebox drops and the heat transfer of the fuel is reduced.

Modern solid fuel boilers are often equipped with special heat accumulators. These devices accumulate an excessive amount of thermal energy generated during the combustion process of fuel under conditions of good traction and high efficiency. This way you can save fuel.

In the case of wood-burning stoves, there are not many opportunities to save wood, since they immediately release heat into the air. The stove itself is capable of retaining only a small amount of heat, but an iron stove is not capable of this at all - excess heat from it immediately goes into the chimney.

Thus, by increasing the draft in the furnace, it is possible to achieve an increase in the intensity of fuel combustion and its heat transfer. However, in this case, heat loss increases significantly. If you ensure slow combustion of wood in the stove, then its heat transfer will be less, and the amount of carbon monoxide will be greater.

Please note that the efficiency of the heat generator directly affects the efficiency of wood burning. Thus, a solid fuel boiler boasts 80% efficiency, and a stove – only 40%, and its design and material matter.

Assembly of the finished structure

The design of the furnace, which will be assembled independently according to your own or ready-made drawings, will depend on the material that is available. If you have a metal pipe with a large diameter, then you can assemble the structure, which will be discussed below.

Frame

It is good if the workpiece that will be used to assemble the structure has a wall thickness of 8 mm. This will significantly extend its service life. The description will give dimensions, but for each individual case they will depend on the height of the workpiece for the furnace design that is available. The first step is to thoroughly clean the workpiece from old paint, if any, and from rust. This is required for ease of use, as well as to ensure that the paint does not fade during operation.

After completing the preparatory process, it is necessary to make two round blanks. One of them will be needed to organize the bottom of the furnace, and the second will be used to separate the tank container from the firebox. You can mark the circle with an improvised compass and chalk. The easiest way to cut it is with a plasma welding machine or a grinder. You can do this with an autogenous one, but in this case you will need to make an additional gap, since it burns several millimeters of material in width. After working with an angle grinder, additional processing of the structure will be required to round the edges, since it will be difficult to achieve an ideal result.

When the blanks can be used, one of them is used to close the end. It is necessary to boil carefully and with a sufficiently powerful apparatus that can heat the metal well. The seam of the furnace structure should not have any flaws. After the bottom of the stove is welded, you can begin cutting out a hole for the door of the ash pan and firebox. The size of the first can be 25x12 cm, the second can be increased to 30x20 cm to make it easier to load firewood. It is necessary to cut holes on the side where the hinges will be located. At the same time, it is not worth cutting to the end. The hinges are immediately tried on and welded into place. Only after this can the finishing cut be made. This is the easiest way to install the hinges, since subsequently positioning the door will be much more difficult.

The distance from the top point of the ash pan door to the bottom point of the firebox door should be 15 cm. The next step is to install the grate bars in the stove. They are mounted closer to the top of the ash pan door. It is better not to weld them to the stove body, but to make them removable. To do this, you will need to purchase cast iron blanks and make supports for them. This design will make cleaning the oven easier. To avoid cleaning out the ash pan of the stove with a spatula, you can make a metal box for it that can be easily removed. Once these two oven modules are ready, you can begin making the tank and heater for the oven.

Kamenka

A heater for a round metal stove can be organized in two ways. One of them is internal and the other is external. If you choose the internal version of the heater for the stove, then there are also two manufacturing options for it. If part of the structure is a water tank, which will be located on top, then the heater under the heater will need a blank made of a metal pipe with a diameter of at least 30 cm. Its length should be equal to the width of the stove. One of the ends of such a heater is covered with a metal blank. A hole is cut into the stove assembly for the heater, and it is inserted inside and welded along the edge.

If there is no water tank on top of the stove, then this space can be separated for a heater. In this case, a partition is welded from the inside at a distance of 40 cm from the top. The stones will be stacked on it. Another option for placing the heater in such a stove would be to place it outside. To do this, metal strips are welded around the perimeter, which should be at a distance of 15 cm from the body. It should look like a basket, which is in the photo. This is where the stones are placed.

Container for water

If the upper part of the stove structure is not used for the heater, then it can easily be placed under the water tank. To do this, with the indentation indicated above, a wall is welded, which will serve as the bottom for the tank. Particular attention should be paid to the seam for this jumper in the stove; if this is not done, it will leak into the firebox and interfere with combustion. In this jumper for the stove, a hole is made for the chimney, which is lowered inside. As a chimney, you can use a pipe with a diameter of 115 or 125 mm to make it easier to connect with other components. The place where the pipe passes through the furnace jumper also needs to be well welded.

Half of the upper part is closed with a non-removable plug, and for the second half a lid is made through which you can draw hot water with a ladle. A small ½-inch male fitting is welded to the side wall. Using a drill, a hole is drilled through the fitting in the side wall. The tap is screwed onto it. It must be done at the bottom of the tank so that it is easy to drain water from it. Another tap can be attached to the top and a pipe can be connected to it through which water will be poured. A video of the assembly of a similar oven design can be viewed below.

Furnace installation

Before installing the stove, you need to prepare a place for it. It is advisable to make a concrete base by pouring a small reinforced concrete foundation. Waterproofing and an asbestos sheet under the stove are laid on it. Legs are mounted on the stove, which will raise it above the floor by 15 cm. It is advisable to lay a brick box around the stove walls, which will prevent overheating and fire. If desired, the oven is covered with heat-resistant enamel, which does not produce harmful emissions when heated.

Functions and features of operation of a chimney in a bathhouse

The main purpose of a chimney in a steam room is high-quality and controlled removal of combustion products in order to completely eliminate the accumulation of harmful carbon dioxide and the formation of burning on surfaces. The resulting draft (with air suction into the combustion chamber) maintains a stable operation of the heat generator. By manipulating the flows, the user regulates the heating value of the furnace and fuel consumption. You can heat such a sauna stove for as long as you like, and you can steam all this time.

Features of heat distribution with different methods of connecting the heater to the chimney

The stove in the bathhouse is heated inconsistently. Accordingly, the smoke channel cools down completely between sessions, so the chimney parts experience the strongest repeated thermodynamic loads. The second important factor is operating temperature. Unlike boilers and furnaces used for heating, gases heated to 700 degrees or more are removed here. Direct-flow stoves are often used in the bathhouse; due to the lack of heating shields or water jackets that remove some of the heat, the smoke turns out to be so hot. Therefore, the problem of chimney burnout (the danger of gas contamination and fire) always remains relevant. Chimneys for bathhouse stoves are made from high-quality materials. If these are factory products, they must be approved by the manufacturer for such difficult operating conditions.

General installation recommendations

It is necessary to study in as much detail as possible the information on how to properly make a chimney pipe in a bathhouse and all the details related to its installation, because reliability, service life, performance and, above all, your safety will depend on its quality. Any seemingly insignificant mistake can provoke irreversible consequences.

First you need to familiarize yourself with the main instructions of specialists and instructions (if available).

The areas where the smoke channel passes through the ceilings must first be protected. The step-by-step guide for this stage of installing a chimney in a bathhouse with your own hands is as follows:

• Preparing the passage pipe. It is required to fill its exterior with basalt wool.
• Next, you need to insulate the inside of the unit - decide on the installation point on the ceiling and prepare a hole of the desired shape.
• In the area where it meets the ceiling, spread another thermal insulation layer and then proceed to the cutting device.
• Be sure to leave a small gap between the passage unit and the smoke channel.

Roof work

Start this stage by dismantling the roof:

• It is necessary to determine the dimensions from both the internal and external areas of the roof, taking into account the roof slope (slope).
• Cut a hole inside the roof. To do this, cover the opening areas with metal sheets on both edges, the thickness of which should be 0.5 (mm). You need to make 4 holes measuring 450 by 450 (mm), using the square section method. The scale depends largely on the adapter.
• A roof flashing or master flash is used to pass the chimney through the roof. Their main task is to seal the passage and protect against moisture.

Please note: the master flush must be placed under the top edge of the roof to avoid leakage. Also, seal the joint with the pipe and secure everything with roofing screws.

Passage through the wall

We invite you to familiarize yourself in more detail with two installation schemes with detailed descriptions.

conclusions

From all of the above, the following conclusions can be drawn:

Dung

Dried (to the point of complete dehydration) cattle manure can also help a tourist out of woodlessness. Cow patties burn very well and take a long time, and they produce quite a bit of heat.

Unfortunately, it was not possible to find the exact parameters of dung as a fuel either in the literature or on the Internet, despite the fact that in many rural areas and agricultural countries it is a traditional method of heating. But they say that in terms of its characteristics, dung roughly corresponds to peat.