Lathing for lining: types and materials of manufacture, as well as what should be the distance between the bars, how to install a frame for the wall of a house with your own hands?

Decorating houses with clapboards has recently become more and more popular. After all, this type of finishing is universal, practical, durable and, most importantly, aesthetically pleasing to the eye. The profile on the walls, moreover, perfectly masks surface unevenness and hides imperfections. But in order for the panels to lie flat and the appearance to be pleasing to the eye, the surface must be covered with high quality. To achieve excellent results in covering a room, you need lathing for the lining. This stage of finishing the house is no less important than the finishing itself.

Choice: wood or metal?

Professional craftsmen consider timber to be the most popular building material for sheathing under lining. Ease of use during installation work, small “weight category” - and creating a frame with your own hands will be easier and faster. This material also has sufficient functional durability. So we choose a wooden beam.

Timber for lining

We will use standard size bars - 50 by 25, 60 by 27 millimeters. This building material is almost ideal both externally and internally. But when purchasing, make sure that there are no defects or chips on it. It is also important to know the moisture level of the wood. Recommended – 16 percent, no more.

Kinds

According to the construction method, the sheathing is of three types:

Horizontal – for vertically oriented material sheets.
Vertical - with horizontal fastening of the lamellas (what are the methods for fastening the lining?).
With counter-lattice - adding an additional layer of thermal insulation under the skin for normal ventilation.

Important
The counter grille is constructed only from wooden beams.

Required: processing solutions

Do not neglect antiseptics and insecticides. This step extends the durability of the sheathing. The minimum level of treatment is a solution against fungus, rot, and mold. And insect control products should be used in houses standing on the ground - dachas, utility rooms. By the way, the cost of the compositions is not too high, and the right thing to do would be to play it safe and treat both the wooden frame and the wall with the ceiling in any room where the sheathing under the lining is being installed. The rules for using solutions are usually written on the packaging - read before you start spraying.

This is what a timber frame looks like

What material is it made of?

Depending on the material used, the lathing can be:

Wooden - special bars with a cross-section of approximately 2x2 or 2x4 cm.
Metal – guides made of galvanized steel.
Plastic - installation requires expensive plastic profiles that are resistant to moisture and other microclimate influences.

When using metal profiles, it is necessary to additionally cover them with a material that is more resistant to changes in moisture and temperature, for example, OSB boards. Otherwise, the clapboard cladding on a metal sheathing begins to wobble after just a year of use.

It is best to use similar bars under wooden panels, which are a little more difficult to level and vertically. But they are securely fixed to the wall surface and create a strong connection with the finish.

Lathing for lining: step-by-step instructions

Preparation of the bar

The material for work should be prepared in advance. The timber should be kept for several days in the room where the finishing will be done. This will allow the building materials to acclimatize, and their temperature and humidity will become similar to that in the room.

Next, the sheathing elements are treated with an antiseptic compound (if possible and, if necessary, with an insecticide). This can be done either using ordinary brushes, processing everything in order and carefully. If the volume of work is large enough, then you can build a small trough from boards and cover it with polyethylene. We pour an antiseptic composition there and dip each of the bars. This option will provide high-quality protection against mold and mildew.

Antiseptic trough

Preparing the walls

While the timber is drying, we prepare the surface of the walls. To do this, mark the width of the racks using a pencil and using a level so that all the lines are as even as possible. Such a “drawing” will allow you to clearly see how the entire structure will subsequently look, simplifying the work and controlling the correct location of the sheathing elements.

You should also determine the starting point for installing the sheathing. It can be the lowest corner available in the room (we find it using a water or laser level). After the necessary measurements, we draw out the wall and draw a horizontal line.

Marking

Lathing with timber

How to hide wall defects

If the unevenness is significant, then it is necessary to secure the beam using special hangers, which should be positioned in a line (every half a meter) and secured perpendicularly. The prices for this type of fasteners are low, so the costs will not increase significantly. When fastening, the ends of the hangers are bent in the direction of the bar, after which it is leveled and fixed. This option is convenient due to its simplicity and accuracy: you can level surfaces quite quickly and easily.

Wooden wedges can also be used: they are the most important element for leveling significant unevenness in the surface of the walls. Prepare a certain number of wedges of different sizes in advance and treat them with antiseptics. As practice says, they tend to come in handy in most cases.

Hangers will help align the frames evenly

The installation of the sheathing under the lining is constantly monitored by level. We check the position of the bars and only then fasten them. To strengthen the angle, you can install a jumper in these places. This ensures maximum rigidity of the frame and simplifies fastening in corners.

What to consider during manufacturing?

Despite the simplicity of finishing surfaces with wooden lining, there are still several points that deserve attention:

The size of the timber, its cross-section and shape. For reliable fastening, slats with a cross-section of 2x2 or 2x4 cm are needed. With such parameters, the guides have the necessary strength to withstand the cladding structure. The use of larger size bars will not increase the strength of the structure, but will significantly affect the cost of finishing.
Step. The optimal distance of adjacent guides on the ceiling is 0.4 m, and on the walls - 0.5 m. With this arrangement, the optimal combination of cladding strength and its cost is achieved. Additional slats should be attached along the length of the joint, if provided.
Method of fastening to the surface of the ceiling and walls. Unlike a metal profile, special brackets are not required to fix a wooden block to the wall. The guide is located along or across the wall with fastening with self-tapping screws or dowels.
Advice
If there are uneven spots on the wall, and in some places the plank does not adhere tightly, then they can be filled with special pads.

What to choose - wood or metal?

The material for installation must have the following qualities:

Resistance to aggressive moisture. If these are metal profiles, then they must be made of stainless steel, and if they are wooden, then they are coated with special impregnations.
For internal cladding, a standard metal profile is required: it is used as a frame for drywall, and for wooden beams - a section of no more than 2x4 cm.
The strength and durability of the cladding depends on the quality of the supporting structure. Therefore, the bars should not contain cracks or a large number of knots, and should be of an even shade.
Cedar and larch are the most suitable species. Types other than pine lumber may be used since such wood is prone to cracking in the future as it dries.
If the timber is treated with protective compounds, then after such a coating it must be kept indoors for at least 2 days, which will allow the material to adapt to the microclimate.
The degree and method of drying are of great importance. Dry material that has been kept under natural conditions is best suited for the frame. However, its price is high.

Advice

To determine the degree of dryness of the wood, you need to touch the end of the lumber. If it is oozing resin or wet, you must discard the selection.

Distance between bars

To secure the lining to the wall, you need to provide a strong frame (read about how to properly secure the material here). It is necessary to calculate the optimal distance between the bars so that there is no waste of material and the strength of the coating is maximized.

To do this, it is recommended to maintain a distance of no more than 0.5 m on the walls in the horizontal, diagonal or vertical direction between the supporting elements of the sheathing. With this arrangement of the bars, the cladding will receive sufficient strength. More frequent installation of bars will lead to a loss of money and time, but the strength will practically not change.

If the guides are positioned with a step larger than 0.6-0.8 m, then the wood will have sufficient space to change its shape during operation. Often this lining swells or bends inward. Therefore, you need to adhere to the parameters recommended by the technology for installing wooden panels. The ceiling lining must be attached to the frame in increments of up to 0.4 m, since its “suspended” fastening method requires a reinforced structure.

What to choose - self-tapping screws or dowels?

The choice of specific fastening materials is based on the type of wall and its material. If the surface is made of plasterboard, metal profiles or plastered shingles, then the installation of the bars is carried out with long-length self-tapping screws.

To install the sheathing on a concrete or brick surface, the use of special dowels with casings is required, which, during the screwing process, expand and are tightly fixed in the supporting structure. This method of holding wooden blocks for these walls is more reliable.

Other tools

A screwdriver or drill will come in handy. Since there is a huge amount of work ahead with more than a hundred dowels and screws, it is better to automate the process, reducing the time of attaching one point to a minimum.
You will need a jigsaw or wood saw. They cut a block or cladding sheet to the required length.
A tape measure or construction ruler will be required for accurate measurements of the parameters of the working surfaces.
You need a plumb line, a wood pencil, a building level with an alcohol capsule. In order for the coating to be installed quickly, beautifully and durable, it is necessary to position the first cladding element very accurately relative to the horizon.

Attention

The accuracy of placing the first panel determines the quality of installation of the entire wall covering, so this operation must be performed very carefully and carefully.

Installation of insulation and waterproofing

After placing the bars, insulation material can be laid between them. It can be mineral wool, penoplex with polystyrene foam, and other variations on the theme. The thickness of the insulation varies depending on the purpose of the room itself, as well as the climatic environment. For example, in a bathhouse such indicators can reach ten centimeters (the need to ensure a minimum of heat loss).

After installing the insulation, we install a waterproofing film and protection against condensation. This is extremely necessary, for example, in the bathroom, in the steam room, or in rooms where the humidity is higher than normal. We cover the entire surface of the walls with foil, including the timber. For fastening, we use short pieces of timber, which we fasten to the sheathing with self-tapping screws.

Sheathing for lining: installation of foil

We install an additional beam (seal) in the ceiling and under the plinth. It provides maximum fit and also protects the “pie” of the walls from moisture and steam.

At this stage, installation work is considered complete. You can additionally coat it with a protective agent (varnish) and dry it.

Purpose of the lattice structure

Any methods of attaching the lining to the sheathing are not designed for installation on an empty wall. Therefore, it is necessary to first set up a frame that simplifies the fixation of various elements on it.

If you install the sheathing according to the rules, the process of attaching the finishing material will be greatly simplified, and the final result will be very attractive.

Metal carcass

The main purpose of the frame is to create a level base on which you can hang the lining.

Ceiling: lathing for lining step by step

First of all, we install dowels: 0.8 by 4 centimeters. For installation, as a rule, you need to drill holes using a drill (depth about 5 centimeters). Next, the dowels are placed inside, and holes of the same diameter are drilled in the bars for fastenings.
Using a cord (string), we mark the ceiling; along its perimeter, fragments of the sheathing will be placed (the interval is 50-60 centimeters).
For evenness of installation, we use a level and fishing line (string). At least 2 people will be required to complete the work.
The block is attached to the ceiling; if necessary, we install special plates that level the sheathing horizontally. To fix the sheathing in the ceiling surface, we use self-tapping screws.

Video: do-it-yourself ceiling installation:

As you can see, lathing under the lining is within the capabilities of everyone. It is enough to follow the simple rules given in this article, and also use high-quality material to carry out the work. And everything will probably work out!

Distance between bars

This parameter has already been indicated in previous paragraphs, but it is better to focus on it again. Knowing the distance between the bars will greatly simplify the installation of the cladding on the prepared surface. For reliable fixation, the step should be 40-60 cm, but no more.

Distance between hangers

There are certain subtleties in this process. The step must be selected based on the purpose of the repair. If you need to additionally place insulation, then the distance is taken slightly less than the width of the sealing material. The fact is that the insulation must adhere tightly to the ceiling in order to improve its insulating qualities.

What is the best way to cover the walls of a wooden house inside?

A wooden house is the dream of many. And therefore, when the opportunity arises to buy it or build it yourself, you want it to delight you with its warmth and comfort for many decades. And for this you need to carefully approach the finishing of the structure.

Particular attention needs to be focused on the questions: what can be used to cover the walls of a wooden house inside and how to do it correctly

Now on the market you can find many offers for the sale of houses and cottages that already have interior decoration. But not all of them can be trusted. It often happens that for the sake of economy, walls are sheathed in violation of all technologies. This will not become clear immediately, but only after a certain period. Therefore, the best option would be to cover the walls of a wooden house yourself.

Sheathing schemes

Incorrect and correct installation of sheathing from horizontal lining belts

The easiest way to install lining boards on walls is to either mount them upright or lay them on horizontal belts. Horizontal cladding is generally more beautiful, but it is necessary to correctly cladding walls horizontally, always laying the boards with the ridges up. Otherwise, micro-reservoirs will form in the grooves (item 1 in the figure on the right), from which rot and infection will occur.

If the sides of the groove of the bottom board (the first in the installation order) are trimmed correctly, they are cut off, pos. 2 in Fig., so that the groove does not become a pocket - a trap of capillary moisture. As for the vertical cladding, whether and where to cut the tongue/groove depends only on the installation method. Vertical cladding is used in damp rooms or with a high probability of condensation (bathhouse, hallway); here, the correct installation of horizontal cladding will not save it from getting stuck.

Diagonal clapboard cladding is rarely used, because is complex and results in a large waste of material, but aesthetically has almost no benefit. There are many shaped clapboard coverings; you can notice that, for example, sheathing with a flat herringbone (on the left in the next figure) is labor-intensive, but not as complicated as it seems: the fragments are cut according to a template in a miter box and mounted on a vertical sheathing.

Herringbone and diamond clapboard paneling

Features of the thermal insulation process

Insulation for walls in private housing, as in the case of any other object, is best laid on the outside. If thermal insulation is installed from the inside, the walls will remain cold, and due to the shift in dew point, condensation will form on the internal surfaces. This will lead to the constant presence of moisture, which is especially dangerous for a wooden house.

In a situation where the main frame of the building is made of brick or other material, for example, foam blocks, it is the thermal insulation that will suffer to a greater extent, especially when it comes to mineral wool insulation. But even under such conditions, it is possible to build the safest possible structure that will trap heat in the house.